Michael Apstein Review Online February 2018
Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillon “Cuvée Guy Moreau” 2016:
Fabien Moreau, the current winemaker, says that this portion of their plot in the Vaillon vineyard was planted by his grandfather, Guy, 83 years ago and contain the oldest vines of their estate. Located on the steepest part of the slope, the vines have excellent exposure and drainage. An extraordinary wine, which could pass for many producers’ Grand Cru, their 2016 displays an impeccable balance of freshness, energy and stony minerality. The finish is seemingly endless and you are left with the delightful mouth-watering sensation that demands another sip.
Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillon 2016:
Vaillon is a large well-known 1er cru vineyard on the Left Bank in Chablis that is composed of many plots. Christian Moreau’s plot, where the average age of the vines is 56 years, according to their website, is in the heart of the vineyard. Year in and year out, their Vaillon is always one of their most exciting wines. Their 2016 is not different. A great success, it has almost all of the vivacity of the 2014 vintage combined with the ripeness of the 2015 vintage. Drink now with sautéed scallops or cellar it for the next five or ten years.
Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2016:
Vaudésir, along with Le Clos, sit atop most critics’ lists -- certainly mine -- of top Grand Cru vineyards in Chablis. To me, the wines from Vaudésir, in the hands of the best producers, combine power with elegance and epitomize the stature of Grand Cru classification. Christian Moreau’s 2016 Vaudésir fits that mold perfectly. Adverse weather reduced their crop of Vaudésir in 2016 by half. But what they made was sensational. Riveting acidity highlight prominent flinty mineral notes that command your attention. This is the kind of wine where one sip makes you take notice and say, “Wow.”