First apparition in the 2011 Gault&Millau Guide
Silver medal 2010 from the Magazine Wino, Varsovie, Poland, December 2010
WINE ADVOCATE #191, Oct 2010
THE AGE EPICURE
Tuesday, November 2, 2010
Burghound.com, Allen Meadows
JUL/AUG 10 - By Stephen Tanzer
The Moreau family started harvesting on September 19 in 2009, with plenty of potential alcohol in the grapes. "We had perfect ripening conditions and very little disease pressure," noted Fabien Moreau. "A great August and a good September gave us a lot of natural maturity. In contrast, the sound sugar levels in 2008 were more from evaporation of water due to the north wind in September, which allowed the grapes to retain acidity. Still, even though we waited to pick in 2009, we had good acidity levels: better than in 2006, more like 2005. In sum, 2009 is a pleasant surprise." Incidentally, as at Louis Michel, 2008 was the first vintage here that was vinified entirely with wild yeasts. "We like the much longer fermentations," said Fabien. "Now they take seven to ten days to start and then build slowly." (FrederickWildman&Sons, New York, NY)
2009 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis: 87-89
Sexy aromas of tangerine and orange peel. Juicy and exotic, with fruit-driven flavors of tangerine and spice. A fruity, youthful village wine that's less complicated than the 2008 version but offers excellent juicy cut.
2009 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis Vaillons: 88-89
Pale bright yellow. Crystallized lemon peel and tangerine on the creamy nose. Concentrated and quite ripe but at the same time firmly constructed and perfumed, with a lovely citrus zest lift in the mouth. As dry as this is, it comes across as creamier than the 2008 version, but the dryness cuts the impression of sweetness.
2009 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis Vaillons Guy Moreau: 88-90
(from grapes picked with 13.5% potential alcohol) Deep aromas of ripe peach, truffle and smoky, spicy, vanillin oak. Fat, lush and sweet; almost too ripe and creamy for Chablis. Not classic but quite plush and satisfying-and long on the aftertaste. Perhaps this will firm up during its last months in tank.
2009 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis Vaudesir: 89-91
Good bright yellow. A note of smoky reduction on the nose, which offers scents of fresh apricot, anise and ginger. A fat, sweet fruit bomb, offering a wave of apricot and peach flavors. This, too, is tactile and lush, but is not yet showing the sappiness of more minerally vintages.
2009 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis Blanchots: 88-91
Bright medium yellow. Peach, coffee, hazelnut and coffee on the nose; showing its oaky side now. Then surprisingly energetic in the mid-palate, with firm acidity and good floral lift leavening the oaky impression. All of the Blanchots begins in oak as there are just a couple barrels of this juice at Moreau.
2009 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis Valmur: 90-93
Very ripe but more classic Chablis aromas of fresh apricot, lemon peel, minerals and crushed stone. Broad and creamy in the mouth, with a sweet element of minerality giving this tactile wine a rather fine-grained texture. This large-scaled and horizontal grand cru seems more harmonious today than the more powerful Blanchots.
2009 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis Les Clos: 91-94
Slightly hazy palish yellow. Very pure aromas of gingery spices, lemon, minerals, flint and crushed stone. At once supple and gripping, with a restrained sweetness to the very intense flavors of lemon ice and minerals. Finishes dry and long, with noteworthy energy.
2009 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis Clos des Hospices: 91-93
Bright, light yellow. Very ripe aromas of lemon, ginger and sexy oak, plus a whiff of smoky reduction. Sweet, lush and lemony; comes across as both larger and gentler than the "regular" Clos. Rather like a Puligny-Montrachet in style but with no shortage of minerality. Today I'm not convinced that this wine from deeper soil lower down on the hill is better than the Clos, but in a dry year like 2009 that's often the case.
2008 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis: 89
Musky ginger, quinine and white pepper notes lift the fruit aromas of lemon, melon, peach and passion fruit. Juicy and quite firm in the mouth, with excellent focus to the lime zest and mineral flavors. This bracing, dry, tangy wine also shows the plumpness and density of the year. An excellent village offering.
2008 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis Vaillons: 91
Pale yellow. Exotic hints of peach, apricot and orange zest, plus a whiff of powdered stone. Rich, supple and sweet, with strong stone fruit flavors lifted and complicated by eucalyptus, wild herbs and a toasty nuance. Brisk lemony acidity gives this wine very good grip, but there's nothing hard about it. Finishes bright and long.
2008 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis Vaillons Guy Moreau: 92
Pale straw-yellow. Deeper on the nose than the regular Vaillon, offering aromas of mirabelle, flowers, nutmeg, ginger and quinine. Creamy, silky and deep, with noteworthy sweetness and breadth. Very rich, layered premier cru nicely framed by firm acidity. This one spent some time in 40% oak and shows a distinct vanillin quality on the back end. But the wine's creamy depth and suavity of texture suggest that it will age gracefully.
2008 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis Vaudesir: 91
Pale, bright yellow. Lemon peel, peach, oyster shell and some spicy, toasty oak notes on the nose (this spent seven months in 45% barriques Round, suave and spicy in the mouth; builds slowly and maintains a very light touch, but there's plenty of concentration here in a rather feminine style. Just a touch of nutty oak on the back. Christian Moreau reminded me that acidity levels in the bottled 2008s are in the very healthy 4.8 to 5.1 grams-per-liter range, whereas the 2009s are roughly a gram lower.
2008 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis Blanchots: 92
Sexy vanillin oak spices and smoke complement aromas of flowers and quinine. Tactile and intensely flavored, with a silky texture firmed and enlivened by a spine of minerality. Plenty of richness and extract here but this is very young. The dusty, tactile, palate-staining finish shows a strong element of iodiney minerality along with some nutty, smoky oak. This was aged in all used barriques, as there were just 2/1-2 barrels of this juice in 2008, but there's more than enough supporting material.
2008 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis Valmur: 92
Pale, bright yellow. Aromas of yellow peach, mirabelle, hazelnut and gingerbread. Tactile and concentrated, with excellent energy to the bright lemon, spice and toast flavors. There's a suggestion of opulence here but also an element of austerity. Finishes very long, dry and laid-back, with a light saline component and a lingering spice quality. I'd give this wine a good five years in the cellar; it's the highest in acidity of these 2008s at 5.1 grams.
2008 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis Les Clos: 93
Pale yellow-gold. Reticent, pure aromas of lime peel, lemon, almond flower and minerals. Deceptively open in the way of Les Clos owing to its sheer suavity, fine-grained texture and balance, hinting at citrus oil. Deep and broad yet almost magically weightless ("this could make a good aperitif right now," notes Christian Moreau), finishing with excellent length and class. As with the Vaillon Guy Moreau, this wine's creamy quality is amplified by the fact that it finished with about two grams per liter of residual sugar.
2008 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis Clos des Hospices : 92(+?)
Pale yellow-straw. Less open on the nose than the "regular" Clos, offering hints of peach, almond, truffle and licorice, plus a steely aspect. Begins leaner, tougher and oakier than the Clos, with strong stony cut, then shows a more exotic aspect with aeration, as well as more oak spice. With its stony core and firm acidity, this wine has a serious structure and excellent grip. Also quite fine-grained but a bit youthfully disjointed today, with its finishing flavors currently a bit suppressed by its oak element (45% for the first several months of elevage It would be educational to compare these two versions of Les Clos two, five and ten years hence.
Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon 2008 : 90/100
Light vanilla, honey, ripe apple, pear, lemon, lees, and nectarine skin nose with hints of spicy butter. Fresh, round, dry, juicy, elegant palate with light spicy lees, mineral, lime, green apple, seashell, lemon, baked pear, vanilla flavours. Very good finesse and length with a juicy, creamy finish. Delicious. The Vaillon site is rich in fossil shells of a small oyster, a frequent occurrence in Chablis. These vines are 65 years old and the vinification and ageing is a 65/35 split done in stainless steel and barrels. The wood is 10 per cent new and 90 percent one, two and three year old barrels for six months.
Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis 2008 : 88/100
Oyster shell, seashore, lime, green apple, oatmeal, matchstick, floral aromas. Fresh, crisp, delicate, juicy palate with green apple, pear, seashore, mineral, light lees, floral, chalky flavours. Nice ripe, cream acidity that will lend itself to any seafood dish. The vineyard is located in the village of Chablis on the left bank of the Serein River. The exposure is south-south east. The soil is Kimmeridgien/calcareous clay. The vineyard density is 6500 vines/ha; average age of the vines is 47 years. The winemaking and aging is all in stainless steel. The wine sits 10 months on its fine lees.
Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos "Clos Des Hospices Dans Les Clos" 2007 : 92/100
Nutty, sweat grapefruit, lees, seashell, seaweed, lime, green apple skin, vanilla, floral, lemon peel, honey aromas. Dry, tight, elegant palate with medium extract. Leesy, spicy, seashell, grassy, green apple skin, light garlic, grassy, dried herb flavours. Good finesse, fresh, drink now-3 years. A more linear style and vintage.
Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon Cuvée Guy Moreau 2008 : 92/100
Lots of lime, spicy, green apple skin, oyster shell, butter, lees, light garlic, grassy, pear aromas with a touch of vanilla. Fresh, crisp, dry, juicy, slightly austere palate with oyster liqueur, lime, green apple skin, lees chalky, vanilla, garlic, honey, lemon flavours. A bit more austere but more intense on the finish than the regular cuvee. This will benefit from 2-4 years bottle age. Great acidity and fruit balance for aging. The Guy Moreau cuvée is made from a parcel of vines planted by Guy Moreau in 1934. The vinification and ageing is done in a 60/40 mix of stainless steel vats and barrels where 90 percent of the wood is one, two or three years old all aged for six months in wood.
Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2008 : 95/100
Floral, light honey, light lees, lime, acacia, seashore, green apple, pear skin, slightly nutty lees aromas. Fresh, round, elegant, juicy, clean palate with honey, nectarine, nutty lees, spicy, lime, lemon, seashell, light butter, floral, vanilla flavours. Very long, juicy, ripe creamy acid finish with cool fruit. Chiselled but full. Drink now or keep for 3-7 years. The very rocky soil at les Clos is Kimmeridgien marl-calcium carbonate mixed with white, dense clays. Vine density is 7000 vines/ha., but the vineyard is only 10 years old. Some 65 percent is aged in stainless vats the remainder is in 10 per cent new barrels and 90 percent one, two and three year old barrels for six months.
Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur 2007 : 92/100
Nectarine, green apple, floral, spicy, light lees, seashell, butter, floral, mineral aromas. Dry, tight, elegant, slightly lean palate with fresh acidity. Seashell, citrus, green apple, nectarine skin, leesy, spicy, herbal, grassy, lemon flavours. Good length and intensity with a bit more extract and acidity than Le Clos but definitely on the greener acid edge. Will improve over the next 2-4 years. The vineyard density is 7000 vines/ha and the average age of the vines is 50 years. The vinification and ageing is a 55/45 split done in stainless steel and barrels. The wood is 10 per cent new and 90 percent one, two and three year old barrels for six months.
Le Guide Hachette des Vins 2011
Bettane & Desseauve: Le Grand Guide des Vins de France 2011
Guide Vert de la Revue des Vins de France 2011
Wine Spectator - Septembre 2010
Decanter - Août 2010
The Wall Street Journal - 27 Juin 2010
Gilbert & Gaillard 2011
Wine Enthusiast - Juillet 2010
La Revue du vin de France - Millésime 2009
Decanter World Wine Awards 2010
Wine Spectator - Avril 2010
STAR LEDGER, NJ, US, 13/01/2010