WINE ADVOCATE #186, Dec 2009
Nick's wine of the week
A Guide to the Wines of Chablis - Second
Guide Gilbert et Gaillard 2010
Wine Spectator September 2009
Le Grand Guide des Vins de France 2010, Bettane & Desseauve
de la Revue des Vins de France 2010
Decanter Award 2009
international Wine Cellar
Fabien Moreau considers 2008 to be a superb vintage for Chablis, as it combines the richness of 2006 and the minerality of 2007. "It's a little like 2002," he told me, "and more concentrated than 2007." The family harvested beginning on October 1, and Fabien vinified for the first time entirely with wild yeasts. There are no set rules for vinification or elevage here: the wines may be fermented in tank or wood (but never more than 2% new oak), and after they're blended following the malo, they are returned to a combination of tank and barrel according to Fabien's taste. Wines may be moved from tank to barrel, or vice-versa, at any time. While I certainly notice the oak element in some cuvees in the early going, my experience has been that this component harmonizes nicely with the wines after just a few years in the bottle, in many cases virtually disappearing. The keys to the steadily rising quality of these excellent wines is the family's superb holdings of old vines, and Fabien's ability to give each wine the treatment it requires. Incidentally, Christian Moreau told me he's enjoying the 2004s, 2003s and 2002s now. "I prefer to drink Chablis after six or seven years," he explained. "After ten years you risk losing the freshness and typicity of Chablis." (Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY)
2008 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis : 86/89
(fined ten days prior to my visit; done totally in tank) Candied fruits lifted by violet on the nose. Sweet and creamy but high-pitched, with floral and orange peel flavors framed by bright acidity. There's a slight exotic fruit quality here that Fabien Moreau says will disappear. A bit tricky to taste today on its finings.
2008 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis Vaillons : 90/92
(this was blended for the second time a week before my visit) Crystallized orange and lemon peel aromas. Sweet, creamy and tactile, with lovely palate-saturating fruit and gingery spice flavors. Finishes with terrific lift and length.
2008 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis Vaillons Guy Moreau : 91/93
(14% potential alcohol, by far the ripest of these 2008s; aging in 50% tank and 50% barrels, mostly one and two years old) Flamboyantly ripe nose shows strong barrel notes of smoke and toast. Then creamy and concentrated if a bit reduced, conveying a larger structure but less finesse today than the regular Vaillons. A distinctly rich and outsized premier cru with a youthfully phenolic finish. Fabien notes that this is less oaky today than it was a month ago.
2008 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis Vaudesir : 91/93
Bright yellow. Lively but reticent aromas of lemon oil, ginger and smoky oak. Ripe, sweet and glyceral, with fat, peachy fruit lifted by spice and floral nuances. This has a solid two grams of residual sugar (it finished its malolactic fermentation before its alcoholic!), but it's more apparent in breadth and fruit intensity than in any undue sweetness.
2008 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis Blanchots : 90/92
(just two and a half barrels made, one of which still had a bit of unfermented sugar) Pure, ripe nose offers white peach, vanilla, spice and smoke. Sweet, ripe and concentrated, with captivating flavors of peach and ginger. Comes across as less oaky today than the 2007 release. A powerful and long wine, finishing with palate-saturating flavor and noteworthy energy.
2008 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis Valmur : 91/94
(in 50% tank and 50% barriques since it was blended in February) Bright, pale yellow. Slightly reduced aromas of lemon, lime and musky flower blossom. Opulent and chewy yet fine-grained, with terrific energy to buffer the sweetness of its white fruit and floral flavors. Valmur is typically a massive grand cru by Chablis standards, and this one indeed boasts a large structure. Tactile, palate-coating and very long on the aftertaste. Fabien told me he'd be taking this out of barrel in a week. Offers superb potential.
2008 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis Les Clos : 93/96
Bright yellow. Knockout nose offers lime, flowers, iodiney minerality and medicinal herbs. Large-scaled, layered and sweet; a wonderfully generous big boy that conveys an uncanny impression of solidity for such a fine-grained wine. With its remarkably tactile, long finish, one chews this wine rather than drinks it. But this is a moderate 12.8% alcohol, with no chaptalization. I look forward to tasting this wine blind against the vintage's other superstars.
2008 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis Clos des Hospices : 93/95
(this began entirely in oak but was moved to tank in February) Bright yellow. Outstanding musky complexity to the aromas of lemon, minerals, toast and smoke; smells almost sweet. More massive than the "regular" Clos, offering superb richness, sweetness and energy in the mouth, with little obvious sign of its history of oak. But this large-scaled grand cru is more muscular and less silky than the regular Clos. Finishes with terrific length, ripeness and verve.
2007 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis : 88
Classy if subdued aromas of citrus and stone. Juicy and nicely delineated, with good spicy lift to the flavors of lemon and orange zest. A very fresh and energetic village wine.
2007 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis Vaillons : 90
Delicate aromas of violet, lavender, white pepper and spice. Then quite taut and vibrant in the mouth, with lovely precision and lemony cut to the mid-palate. The tactile finish offers lovely lift and a ripe suggestion of orange oil. A very focused version of Vaillons.
2007 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis Vaillons Guy Moreau : 90(+?)
Pale yellow, a bit deeper than the regular Vaillons. Reticent nose hints at oak spice. Riper and richer in the mouth if youthfully closed, with strong acidity framing the peach and vanillin oak flavors. In a more massive style than the regular bottling, but with plenty of supporting acidity. Builds nicely on the finish. This was aged in about 40% barriques, but barely 5% new.
2007 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis Vaudesir : 91(+?)
Pale, bright yellow. Citrus, stone and smoke on the nose, lifted by violet and ginger topnotes. Rich and refined, with lovely aromatic lift to the pure flavors of lemon, poached pear, crushed stone and minerals. At once tactile and silky, with sexy oak suggestions of vanilla and spice. Finishes with terrific breadth and verve, the lemon and crushed stone flavors repeating.
2007 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis Blanchots : 89(+?)
Lemon, licorice and spicy, nutty oak on the nose. Intensely flavored and lively but with a strong spice element currently dominating the wine's citrus and floral flavors. Seems tightened by the oak and a bit rigid on the back end. Will this become more pliant with bottle aging? As this is the family's smallest holding (barely a tenth of a hectare), with production of just 2-1/2 barrels, this was done entirely in 2004 barriques
2007 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis Valmur : 92
Bright yellow. Pure but reticent nose offers lemon, ginger, minerals, white pepper and a whiff of vanillin oak. Richer and larger-scaled than the Vaudesir, offering a creamy middle for the vintage and more finesse than usual for this bottling. Really builds subtly and mounts toward the back, echoing impressively on the long aftertaste.
2007 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis Les Clos : 93(+?)
Pale, bright yellow. Knockout nose projects lemon oil, crushed stone, spices and minerals. As creamy as this is in the mouth, it's most notable for its sheer energy and verve, with lemon and crushed stone flavors that pulsate in the middle palate and on the very long aftertaste. A classic vintage for this wine. Christian Moreau reminded me that the family's major parcel of Clos goes from the bottom to the top of this grand cru. Fabien does three different vinifications before blending the lots at the end. Part of this cuvee went back into barrels for five months following the racking after the malolactic fermentation.
2007 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis Clos des Hospices : 94
this was entirely in barrel, but less than 2% new oak, until the February '08 racking and then went into tank) Bright yellow. Tight nose suggests fresh stone fruits, acacia flower and spice. Then rich, creamy and round, showing more of its texture and personality today than the more lemony and brisk regular Clos bottling. This is really remarkably tasty already but has the stuffing and balancing acidity for a leisurely evolution in bottle.
Revue des Vins de France
Spectator, Bruce Sanderson
Wine Enthusiast – May 2009
Food and Wine Magazine-
The 24th of
March 2009 from The Age, one of Melbourne’s daily newspaper
Ken Gargett –
The Courrier-Mail, The Brisbane's daily newspaper
Issue 10, Winter 2008/2009
Briefing, Sarah March MW
Issue 10, Winter 2008/2009
Burgundy 2007 - 27 Janvier 2009
Février 2009 sur les Bourgognes 2007